baking without butter and wheat

Posted on August 7, 2013 by hilary924

i've been trying something a little new . . . gluten-free and/or vegan baking. this is partly because, well, i moved back to california. but also because my main baked goods audience has shrunk to the very lovely people who work for the somm.

and they HAVE to like my baking! it's a win win win.

just kidding.

i'd already gone down the gluten-free road for the yogi. and after having read about how terrible wheat is for you.

plus there are so many fun types of flour out there! i now own about 10 varieties taking up precious freezer space. right next to my highly glutenized leftover bagel dough. whee!

i do not yet have an opinion on what type of flours i like best. luckily, there are many wonderful bloggers who regularly share their wisdom. i've been spending time with gluten-free girl who has many great recipes and some really lovely writing on her blog. she has a great post on how to put together your own gluten-free flour blend. it doesn't require you to buy anything that sounds too crazy (xanthan gum? seriously? isn't avoiding words like that WHY we bake at home?).

almond and coconut were my gateway flours. who doesn't like almonds and coconut?

also, chocolate?

i pulled this recipe from the new york times, which also likes them some gluten-free girl. i skimped on the bananas – don't do that! add plenty of chocolate chips. almond, buckwheat and rice flour are the stars here, but next time i'd cut back on the buckwheat. you want something lighter to really let the chocolate and banana sing.

served warm out of the oven, these didn't immediately seem gluten-free. want a close up of that tender crumb?

pretty normal, right?

but do NOT give them to your vegan friends. there are eggs and buttermilk in there, the sneakers. plus, we've got something else for them.

there are a number of vegan alternatives for eggs. so much good learning, and i would especially like to thank the kind woman who saved me from myself in the tofu aisle at the food co-op.

yeah, i'll pause to let that sink in. caleeefornia!

the tofu you want, that tofu is not in the refrigerator section of the market. it's the shelf-stable stuff. but i went for the flax seed slurry substitution.

slurry! almost as good as shelf-stable tofu.

just mix one teaspoon ground flax or chia seeds with three tablespoons hot water for every egg you're replacing. let the slurry sit, then add to the batter.

ground flax seeds can be found in the oatmeal and hot cereals section, NOT with the various gluten-free flours and starches in the baking section.

are you writing this down?

also, skip the honey and use agave. skip the buttermilk or yogurt and use unsweetened vanilla almond milk.

double the blueberries. whip yourself up some blackberry jam.

have yourself a muffin fest.

Vegan & Gluten-Free Buckwheat Blueberry Poppyseed Muffins

Adapted to be vegan from the New York Times

180 grams (1 1/4 cups, approximately) buckwheat flour
100 grams (3/4 cup, approximately) gluten-free all-purpose flour mix or whole grain gluten-free mix*
10 grams (2 teaspoons) baking powder
5 grams (1 teaspoon) baking soda
3.5 grams (1/2 rounded teaspoon) salt
2 eggs or 2 teaspoon ground flax seeds mixed with 6 tablespoons hot water
125 grams (1/3 cup) agave syrup
360 grams (1 1/2 cups) unsweetened vanilla almond milk
75 grams (1/3 cup) canola or grape seed oil
5 grams (1 teaspoon) vanilla extract
2 cups blueberries
10 grams (1 tablespoon) poppy seeds (more to taste)

*For the gluten-free flour mix I used about 70 grams of a mix of teff, almond and rice flour and 30 grams of arrowroot starch.

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees with the rack adjusted to the middle. Oil muffin tins. Sift together the flours, baking powder, baking soda and salt into a medium bowl. Add any grainy bits remaining in the sifter to the bowl.

In a separate bowl combine ground flax seed and hot water. Stir and let sit for a minute. Beat in agave, almond milk, oil and vanilla extract. Whisk in the dry ingredients and mix until well combined. Do not beat for too long; a few lumps are fine but make sure there is no flour sitting at the bottom of the bowl. Fold in the blueberries and poppy seeds.

Using a spoon or ice cream scoop, fill muffin cups to the top. Place in the oven and bake 20 to 25 minutes, until lightly browned and well risen. Remove from the heat and if the muffins come out of the tins easily, remove from the tins and allow to cool on a rack. If they don’t release easily, allow to cool and then remove from the tins.

Best served with some sort of butter product (that means Earth Balance for you vegans) and jam.

Yield: 12 muffins (1/3 cup muffin tins)

Advance preparation: These keep for a couple of days out of the refrigerator, for a few more days in the refrigerator, and for a few months in the freezer.

farro with squash and kale

Posted on February 20, 2013 by hilary924

we need to do something nice for ourselves. something healthy. something full of leafy greens.

it is a bit of a selfish request, you see. i'm on a couch coughing my lungs up, surrounded by lozenge wrappers and half drunk cups of mint tea. i have a really divine fudgy brownie recipe, but it'll wait for later.

this is not exactly a quick weeknight recipe. the three elements need to be cooked separately – the kale blanched, the squash roasted, and the farro is slowly simmered risotto-style. aka: lots of stirring.

but when the dish comes together, it is magically greater than the sum of its delicious parts.

cooking the farro slowly, first by toasting the grains and then slowly adding chicken broth, results in a deeply nutty and meaty flavor. the grains stay al dente, with a nice firm bite. but the broth reduces down to an almost creamy sauce. it perfectly coats the kale.

this all works because farro has the same starch as arborio rice. you get the same unctious mouth feel (how awful is that phrase!) but with a bit of whole grain goodness. unless you're not into that type of thing. i think farro might be a good grain? it's ancient, which i think is good.

ugh. nevermind, don't ask me. i've already got enough research projects for my cold-medicine-addled brain to manage.

what i do know? try to find the pearled farro. it won't take as long to cook. plus it sounds special.

i used acorn squash here, as called for by the original recipe. but i'd bet you could open one of those super handy dandy packets of pre-cubed butternut and save yourself a few minutes of cursing as the vegetable peeler is gummed up yet again with squash skin as you're fruitlessly digging it into the narrow little acorn squash furrows.

does anyone know a better way to peel acorn squash? or was acorn squash really only meant to be halved, filled with butter and brown sugar and roasted? shall we leave the peeling and cubing for the slightly more ergonomically-inclined butternut squash? yes? good. glad we settled that.

either way you go, this is a really lovely comfort food. hearty and satisfying without being heavy. easily made vegan if you are so inclined. but also lovely with a sprinkle of parmesan cheese for those of us who like a little indulgence.

i'm feeling better already.

Farro with Squash and Kale

From Epicurious. Delicious as a side for a simple roasted chicken, or a main for meatless Mondays.

3 tablespoons unsalted butter, divided
1 small acorn squash, peeled, halved, seeded, cut into 1/2" cubes OR about a half a medium butternut squash, peeled, seeded, cut into 1/2" cubes
Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper
1/2 bunch red Russian or other kale (about 5 ounces), center stems removed, leaves torn
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
3/4 cup farro
1/4 cup diced white onion
1 small garlic clove, very thinly sliced
1/4 cup dry white wine
2 cups chicken (or vegetable) stock mixed with 2 cups water, warmed
finely grated Parmesan, to taste

Preheat oven to 375°F. Melt 1 tablespoon butter in a medium saucepan. Add squash, season lightly with salt and pepper, and toss to coat. Spread out on a rimmed baking sheet. Roast, turning squash every 10 minutes, until tender, 30–35 minutes.

Cook kale in a large pot of boiling salted water until wilted, about 2 minutes. Transfer to a bowl of ice water to cool; drain.

Heat oil in a large ovenproof skillet over medium heat. Add farro; toss to coat. Roast in oven until toasted, stirring once, about 6 minutes. Transfer to a bowl; wipe out skillet.

Melt 2 tablespoons butter in same skillet over medium heat. Add onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until translucent, about 4 minutes. Add garlic; stir until aromatic, about 2 minutes. Add wine; increase heat to high. Stir until almost evaporated, about 2 minutes.

Add farro and 1/2 cup warm stock mixture. Stir until almost all liquid is absorbed, about 3 minutes. Continue cooking, adding broth by 1/2 cupfuls, stirring and allowing broth to be absorbed between additions, until farro is tender. This will take between 30 and 45 minutes – maybe up to an hour. I can usually tell when it is time to add more broth when you can drag your wooden spoon across the bottom of pan and the little liquid left stays parted for a few seconds.

Add kale, squash; stir gently until vegetables are heated through, about 2 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper and a sprinkle of parmesan cheese.

honey bourbon & peach bbq chicken

Posted on October 7, 2011 by hilary924

what do you do when someone offers to come to your house on a sunday evening and bake you a chocolate pie?

make them this chicken in return. it's like saying i love you, in tangy, sweet poultry form.

this is not a fancy recipe.

it was created by the pioneer woman. let me tell you, she knows her comfort food.

want to play with the camera?

check out the peach jam!

whoa, wait! there's that honey bourbon! betcha thought we were done with that bad boy!

this recipe got us close, but there is still a good inch or so left in the bottle.

and don't let it's honey sweetness fool you. this is a gateway drug to more serious whiskey. it is possible a bottle of makers mark has made it to my place of work. it is certain that i was not responsible. but it is possible that i have partaken.

goes great with diet ginger ale. and a caramel apple lollipop. as you cry silently at your desk.

wait, too serious? back to the food! focus!

this recipe is essentially a braise. oh man, get ready. fall is here for reals and i'm going to be braising so much meat you won't be able to keep up. how else can i be sure my favorite short rib recipe is really my favorite?!?!

but today, we are cooking the bock bock. that's chicken for those of you who don't speak paige.

chicken thighs are great for braises. they're virtually indestructible – have you ever had a dry chicken thigh? just ask spilled milk. i browned up some bone-in, skin-on for some juicy goodness. and then boneless skinless because i'm lazy and would like to not gain 10 lbs every weekend. plus my yogi is uncomfortable with meat-looking meat.

let it hang out in the oven with all that good bbq sauce, peach jam, and bourbon until it falls apart. serve with smashed potatoes, and maybe some green beans for good measure.

this sauce is crazy addictive. you'll want more than seconds because it just hits every note right – sweet, savory, with just a hit of the bourbon. just use a bbq sauce that has a bite – you want to balance out the jam. and if you choose a good jam, it'll be a little chunky. it's a substantial sauce, let me tell you.

bonus? it goes great with chocolate pie. thanks larkin!

Peach-Whiskey Barbeque Chicken

All I did was swap out the bourbon for honey bourbon, so you should just check out Pioneer Woman's recipe posting. She'll walk you right through the recipe, but it's easy as pie. Promise.

spicy corn saute

Posted on August 21, 2011 by hilary924

there’s a lot of corn in the world right now. it keeps following me home. there are going to be a LOT of corn recipes coming up, folks. bear with me.

today’s corn recipe comes courtesy of the spilled milk podcast. do you know spilled milk? you should. and if you don’t you’re in for a treat. i just discovered it about a month ago which means i have several years of past episodes to catch up on.

this is one of my favorite things – playing catch-up on books or tv shows. i’m impatient, so it works out not having to wait for new content, but also means i’m usually about two years behind the world, culture wise. highlights of the year: working my way through five seasons of friday night lights and discovering the bazillion pages of the first four game of thrones books. the two weeks i had to wait until the next book was released this summer? let’s just say, good thing i was mostly in spain. lots of lovely temperanillo and worrying about the somm avoiding the bulls in pamplona to distract me.

anyway, this is a food blog, and spilled milk is a food podcast. a hilarious food podcast. and about a year ago, they did a great episode on cord off the cob . . . or corn on the spoon as we prefer to call it around here.

you should always start with super fresh corn. this kind of fresh:

tell you what: they weren’t lying. farmer’s market produce, not for the faint of heart.

this corn is spicy. no kidding spicy. it calls for a whole jalepeno to four ears of corn, but man. i used about two thirds of a pepper (and no seeds) and it still killed me.

saute it up. this recipe is based around not just the jalepeno, but the yummy layer of brown gunky stuff that gums up the bottom of the pan when you saute corn. all the sugar and flavor of the corn. gunk. molly & matthew on spilled milk have assured me, it’s a technical term!

admission: i have been known to scrape that gunk up and eat it off the spatula. salty, sweet, like corn msg. this recipe is better, and less likely to disgust your friends and loved ones. deglaze the pan with a little water (or maybe even wine? live large!) and the corn kernals soak all that flavor back up.

i couldn’t tell if manchego approved or not.

he doesn’t particularly enjoy corn and can’t quite understand why if i’m going to cook rather than play laser tag with him i don’t cook something with protein. now, roasted chicken. there’s something he can get behind.

sorry dude. this corn was good. better in a quesadilla, where the cheese helped cut the burning fire in my mouth. hello jalepeno!

For this recipe: Corn off the Cob by Spilled Milk

My changes: less jalepeno, a mix of scallions and red onion cause that was what i had, and sprinkle of pepitas on top.

roasted tomatillo & corn salsa

Posted on August 4, 2011 by hilary924

this salsa is a major victory. i mean, it tastes great – smoky and tangy and sweet and spicy – but the victory comes from the fact that it was produced and consumed without harm to myself or the kitchen.

the last time i made this salsa, i felt like i was starring in my very own adam sandler movie. jalepeno in my eye, me futily splashing it with water while the sommelier frantically googles for antedotes, then milk everywhere – especially crusted around my red, swollen face. add in a huge, bleeding cut in my fingertip to distract me, and to top it off, we inaugurated the kitchen fire extinguisher when the broiler got the best of the homemade tortilla chips.

not my finest hour.

at multiple points during this experience, the sommelier suggested perhaps some takeout from the lovely chicken place down the street might be a good idea. this is why he was better in economics . . . he knows a sunk cost when he sees one and is ready to move on.

but i'm a crazy cook, so i persisted. and was rewarded with yummy tomatillo salsa!

this time, having only slightly learned from past mishaps, i decided to step it up and char both the corn and the tomatillos. which i mananged without burning ANYTHING. so, let's get started.

have you met the tomatillo?

when you pull off the papery skins, they kind of look like little, unripe tomatoes. they're a little sticky, so you have to give them a good rinse.

to make salsa, you can blend them up raw, or roast them under the broiler.

kind of looks like a marimekko print, don't you think?

i went for roasted, because i also wanted to add some charred corn. i'd never done this before. now i've done it twice without burning anything that wasn't meant to be burned! progress!

the corn does pop a little, and the inevitable corn silk stuck between the kernels does flare up and burn off a bit. it kind of freaked the sommelier out, cause he knew i was up to no good. but i stood back at a safe distance. had the fire extinguisher out and ready (this particular kitchen safety measure, like the knife skills lesson, was totally the somm's idea). we worked through it, and it was worth it.

fact: add this stuff to roasted cherry tomatoes with some lime, cilantro, salt & pepper and the barest splash of balsamic and you'll have yourself a lovely summer salad. or, enjoy while standing at your cutting board and trying not to drop any on the floor. mmm.

but we're focusing on the tomatillo today.

blend up your roasted tomatillo with some onion, jalepeno, and lime juice. stir in the corn, chopped cilantro and salt to taste.

total victory. and yes, this time we skipped the homemade tortilla chips.

Roasted Tomatillo & Corn Salsa

adapted from Simply Recipes, via Kuhn Orchards at my local farmers market

1 1/2 lb tomatillos
2 ears corn
1/2 cup chopped white onion
1/2 to 1 lime, jucied, to taste
2 Jalapeño peppers OR 2 serrano peppers, stemmed, seeded and chopped
1/2 cup cilantro leaves
Salt to taste

Remove papery husks from tomatillos and rinse well. Slice in half and roast, cut side down, under the broiler until almost black.

Husk corn and char – carefully – over a gas burner. Slice kernals from cob.

In food processor, blend tomatillos with onion, lime and jalepeno. Place in bowl, and stir in cilantro and corn. Season and enjoy!

easy summer pork tenderloin with peaches

Posted on August 1, 2011 by hilary924

reader, brace yourself. this recipe is super easy, but it is going to require you to get up close and personal with a big hunk of raw meat.

if you are like most of my friends, you look at raw meat and start slowly backing away. do not be afraid. it will be worth it.

the challenge is the rub. here it is, in my adorable morter & pestle (one of the lovely wedding gifts i kept – thank you cousins!):

this is about 4 cloves of garlic, and powdered curry, cinnamon, & ginger. and maybe some salt and pepper. all mashed up. with a little olive oil, but i had a super hard time getting the oil to come together with the spices in the mortar. try a bowl and a fork.

now, apply to your pork! you have to work it in there. use some elbow grease. get to know your tenderloin. think about how tasty it's going to be.

you're going to want to sear this bad boy in a pan that you can then just pop into your oven to finish it off until the center of the thickest part of the meat is 145 degrees.

do you have a meat thermometer? you should get one. mine is digital and fancy-pants and ridiculously expenseive (and purple!) but super worth it. you don't have to spend that much. but a thermometer is really the only way to know your meat is cooked properly. don't blame me, blame harold mcgee.

see how nice and browned it got from the searing? yum.

you want to let your pork rest while you make the peach compote. if you slice into the meat too soon, it'll look raw in the middle, cooked on the outside, and dry, dry, dry because all the juices'll just be a puddle on your plate. not yummy. resting lets all the juices redistribute throughout the meat. evens out the cookedness (yes i know that's not a word) of the meat.

and you have other things to deal with: tomatoes, corn and peaches!

well, first you want to soften some onions in your pan – leave all the good porky bits in the bottom to help flavor them up. but careful not to grab the handle while you're sauteing. it's hot, people – it was in the oven. and if you grab it, it'll leave you trying to finish dinner while holding an ice pack and that's just no fun. not that i would know from experience or anything.

next, add the good stuff shown above and a healthy amount of fresh herbs – i went with thyme. i heart thyme.

this isn't a 30 minute meal. but it's pretty close. and it's pretty good.

Easy Summer Pork Tenderloin with Peach, Corn & Tomato Compote

Adapted from Epicurious

4 garlic cloves
2 tsp powdered ginger
1 tsp ground cinnamon
1/2 tsp curry powder
1 (3/4-pound) pork tenderloin
Olive oil
1 medium onion, chopped
3/4 pound tomatoes, cut into 1-inch pieces
1 peach, chopped
1 ear corn kernels
2 teaspoons chopped thyme

Preheat oven to 425°F with rack in middle.

Mash garlic, spices, 3/4 teaspoon salt, and 1/2 teaspoon pepper to a paste using mortar and pestle. Rub all over pork.

Heat oil in an ovenproof 12-inch heavy skillet over medium-high heat until it shimmers. Brown pork on one side, about 5 minutes, then turn over and transfer skillet to oven. Roast until an instant-read thermometer inserted into thickest part of meat registers 145 to 150°F for juicy meat, 10 to 12 minutes. Let pork rest, uncovered, on a cutting board while making compote.

Add onion to skillet (handle will be very hot) and sautéover medium-high heat until softened, 5 to 7 minutes. Add tomatoes, peach and corn and sauté until just softened, 3 to 4 minutes. Stir in thyme.

Slice pork and serve with compote.

s is for scape

Posted on June 22, 2011 by hilary924

normally, i'm not one to go for the funky at the farmer's market. kohlrabi? not so much. kale? tame to the rest of the world, but only just entering my regular vegetable rotation.

this is what i buy.

oh, wait. this is a food post. but, i mean . . . how gorg are these flowers! there is one stand at my farmers market that makes the most beautiful bouquets. they totally get my color palette.

anyway, back to business. check these out.

funky little wax beans. they go great with these:

i did not grow these. my cherry tomato plant thus far is barren. i blame the home depot. that is another story.

also, do you use a tomato knife? my husband, aka the sommelier, aka my knife enabler, bought one for me. it works really well. plus it's red! and it has a nifty sheath. which is a great word. sheath.

green beans (or squiggly little yellow wax beans) + cherry tomatoes + feta + vinaigrette = one of my favorite parts of summer.

but, garlic scapes. many lovely bloggers i drool over have been all over making scape pesto. and isn't pesto just like vinaigrette on steroids?

plus, how cool are scapes?

did you know they are the top bits of garlic?

i threw about a cup of scape, cut into 2 inch segments, into the food processor. with about a third of a cup of walnuts.

add lots of parmesan. maybe a 1/3 cup olive oil. most recipes i saw call for a lot more olive oil. but i live with a health nut. i didn't tell him about the parmesan. instead, i subbed in juice of one lemon.

action shot!

plus salt and pepper. and, i would recommend some basil. the scape needs some help mellowing out. i ended up adding a splash of cream (REALLY don't tell the health nut husband). and more parmesan.

toss the pesto with blanched beans and halved cherry tomatoes. couldn't be simpler.

yummy!

and, possibly even better the next day. or, you know, three days later tossed with mesculen for lunch at work. that's how i roll.

plus, there was extra pesto. so i rubbed it all over a chicken. i got it up under the skin. then i roasted it.

hello, lover.

but, isn't there something slightly inappropriate looking about a roast chicken? or at least, this roast chicken. it looks like it needs to be trussed. but i am too lazy to truss. i had a cooking instructor once sit a chicken up and made it dance and wave to us. it was a little disturbing. not to mention that we followed that the "meet your chicken" moment was followed by a "debone your chicken" moment.

moral of the story? don't get too attached. chicken is just too yummy. especially when infused with garlicy pestoy goodness.

Garlic Scape Pesto

1 cup scapes, chopped into 2 inch pieces
1/3 cup chopped walnuts
1/3 to 3/4 cup olive oil, to taste
1 lemon, juiced
1/4+ cup shredded parmesan
salt and pepper
splash cream, optional
1/2 cup basil

In a food processor, grind scapes, walnuts and basil (if using). Add olive oil and lemon juice until creamy. Transfer to bowl. Stir in parmesan and salt and petter. Taste. If garlic overwhelms your senses and you love it, you're done. If garlic overwhelms your senses and you chug a diet coke, add cream until you can deal.

Manchego's Kitchen

it's his kitchen. i just cook here.

Category Archives: Healthy