friday night pizza with onion confit

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growing up, fridays were always take-out pizza night. a night to relax the rules, rent a movie, and laze about on the sofa. no vegetables required. the whole of the weekend just stretching out ahead of you, full of promise.

this is a slightly more grown-up pie than the little cesar's extra pepperoni. but it hits all the right notes, salty and sweet toppings, chewy and crispy crust.

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making the pizza yourself is just as easy as ordering take-out – i promise. especially if you ditch the overly complicated dough recipe in the baking with julia cookbook. i tried it – and i tried to be fair.

but, ugh. kneading. rising. if i was faced with that everytime i wanted homemade pizza, i'd just buy the very very good dough from trader joe's.

people. it is so simple. flour. salt. yeast. this recipe uses sugar, but there's really no need. mix in the morning while your coffee is brewing. cover, and it'll be perfect and ready for you when you get home.

add toppings. bake. enjoy. capiche? 

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i won't pretend that onion confit is a friday night activity. it's time intense, but worth it to get the onions simmered down to a jam-like consistency. sweet with a hint of acid from a splash of red wine. a perfect complement to a scattering of blue cheese crumbles.

try that on a sunday, recapture a bit of the beginning of the weekend indulgence. i won't tell.

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Tuesdays with Dorie: Baking with Julia's Pizza with Onion Confit

Like I said, there are easy pizza dough recipes that do just as well – or better – than the one in the book and don't require multiple steps. So, I'm just going to link to my favorite. Jim Leahy. The man knows his dough. To read more, go to Tuesdays with Dorie or Boy Can Bake.

Pizza Dough

Notes for the linked recipe – you can use less yeast if you give the dough all day to rise. You don't need to bother with the sugar.

 Onion Confit

  • 3 tablespoons unsalted butter
  • 4 medium onions (about 2 1/2 pounds total), peeled, halved, and sliced 1/8to 1/4 inch thick
  • Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
  • 1 tablespoon sugar
  • Fresh thyme sprigs or leaves to taste
  • 1/4 to 1 1/2 cups red wine
  • 1/4 cup red wine vinegar

Melt the butter in a large heavy skillet and stir in the onions.  Season with salt and pepper, stir, cover the pan, and cook the onions over low heat until they are soft, about 5 minutes.  Sprinkle the sugar over the onions, stir, cover, and cook for another 5 minutes.

Add the thyme, 1 1/4 cups red wine, the vinegar, and a tablespoon or two of the creme de cassis, if you want to use it.  Stir well and cook the mixture over the lowest possible heat, stirring from time to time, for about 1 hour, until just about all the liquid has evaporated.  If the liquid has cooked off in half an hour or less, add a bit more wine.  Turn the onions out onto a flat plate and let them cool to room temperature.

The onions can be made up to 2 days ahead and kept covered in the refrigerator.  They should be brought to room temperature before they’re spread on the pizza.

Pulling it all Together

  • Dough
  • Onion Confit – relatively cool
  • Blue cheese or goat cheese crumbles
  • Any other topping your little heart could desire

Position a rack in the lower third of the oven, fit the rack with a baking stone or quarry tiles, leaving a border of at least 1 inch free all around and preheat the oven to 475o F.  Rub a baker’s peel with cornmeal and set aside until needed.

Shaping the Dough  Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured work surface (snip off a small piece of dough to save for the Mixed-Starter Bread if you want) and divide it into two pieces.  You’ll probably have to bake the pizzas one at a time, so keep one piece covered while you work with the other.  If you do not want to make two pizzas at this time, wrap one piece of dough tightly in plastic and store it in the refrigerator, where it will keep for a day or two, or wrap it airtight and freeze for up to a month.  Thaw frozen dough, still wrapped, overnight in the refrigerator.  Bring the chilled dough to cool room temperature before shaping.  Shape the dough into a ball and then flatten it into a disk.  To form the pizza, you can either turn and stretch the dough, stopping to allow the dough to rest for a few minutes if it springs back readily, or roll it out with a rolling pin.  Either way, work the dough until it is about 1/4 inch thick (you can make it a little thinner if you prefer) and transfer it to the peel.

Topping and Baking  Top with half the cooled onion confit and any or all of the optional ingredients, or the topping of your choice, leaving a 1-inch border around the rim of the pizza, and slide the pizza into the oven.  Bake for 13 to 15 minutes, or until the topping is bubbling and the uncovered rim is puffed and beautifully golden.  Repeat with the remaining dough and topping.


freestyle ratatouille

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there are two veggie dishes that just scream summer to me.  they are also two dishes that are super fun to say.  ratatouille!  succotash! 

today, we're talking ratatouille.

everyone in america now knows what ratatouille is thanks to this adorable mouse. 

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both ratatouille and succotash make excellent use of the veggies that are at their prime in summer.  for ratatouille, this means tomatoes.  eggplants.  squash.  sweet peppers.  basil and other herbs.

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you can't really see it, but there's a super pretty purple and white striped eggplant in that pile.  remember when that pile was bigger?

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there's that eggplant!  and a very uncharacteristically curious cat.

some people (ahem julia child) have lots of rules about ratatouille.  sauteing the various vegetable separately to maintain their vegetal integrity.  that just sounds like a lot of cleaning for this servantless chef.  and while thomas keller's perfectly composed little dish of ratatouille for said movie looked delectable, i just can't be bothered on a weeknight.  i like my ratatouille peasant style, stewy and infused with the taste of summer.

so, here goes some freestyle ratatouille.  i'm not even going to give you a real recipe.  first.  chop your veggies.  you know what you like.  i like more tomato than sweet pepper.  i like lots of garlic and a nice big onion.  i like a 1:1ish ratio of eggplant and zucchini. 

heat some oil.  sweat out your onions.  add your garlic.  add your tomatoes. let it hang out and get a little mushy.  then add your eggplant and zucchini.  hit it with some salt and pepper, and some chopped herbs – i like basil and thyme.  cover and let it melt together.  melt it at much as you like.  want your veggies to have a bit of bite?  add them in stages.  or be all julia child and sear them in a separate pan and then add to your tomato.  i won't judge.  too much. 

this is what last night's ratatouille looked like:

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don't judge these knife skills.  it's all going to come together. what will bring it together?  red wine vinegar. 

there are a couple of things that i've learned that have made me a better cook.  1) salt your food.  think you've added enough?  add another pinch.  do it. 2) acid.  acid does amazing things for food.  a squeeze of lemon, a squirt of vinegar, will brighten up most dishes.  professional chefs know how to use acid.  home cooks usually don't.  red wine vinegar will bring your ratatouille together.

but, a little goat cheese wouldn't hurt.  some more basil.  maybe some french bread?  red wine?

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 yum. 

and what's better than a plate of ratatouille?  ratatouille on pizza. 

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whole wheat crust, mozzarella, more of that goat cheese, maybe some chicken sausage. layer on some more summer veggies.

(please note that the farmer's market was not harmed in the addition of vegetables to this pizza, they were kindly donated by friends who then helped consume the results.  unlike my sad underacheivers, their deck garden is going gangbusters.  something about watering and fertilizing?  sigh.)

bake it up.

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mmm.  need to feel more virtuous?  add some kale salad.  dinner's on!

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Ratatouille

Saute onions and garlic.  Add chopped tomatoes.  Add chopped eggplant, zucchini, bell pepers, basil and thyme.  Simmer until it reaches the desired consistency.  Add a few splashes of red wine vinegar, salt, and pepper.  Maybe some red pepper flakes if you're feeling spicy.

Pizza Dough

  • 1 1/2 cup all purpose flour
  • 1 1/2 cup whole wheat flour
  • 1 tsp salt
  • 1 tbsp sugar (or honey!)
  • 1 tsp yeast.
  • 1 cup cold water

Mix flours, salt, sugar, and yeast.  Add cold water and stir/knead until it forms a ball and comes away from the sides of the bowl.  Oil a clean bowl.  Let the dough hang out in the oiled bowl, tightly covered.  At least 2-4 hours, but all day is good too if you're like me and can't wait to eat until 10 pm on a work night and thus must make dough in the morning as a part of a losing battle to being on time for work.  When you get home, knead it a couple of times with more flour, then let it rest under a clean dish towel.  This recipe makes a LOT of dough.  But whatever you don't use will keep in the fridge for a day or two.

Kale Salad

This one is just chopped kale with a TON of feta and a simple dressing of lemon juice, olive oil, salt and pepper.  It was inspired by the marginally fancier Dinner: A Love Story recipe here.